Review of Taj Lake Palace, by Amar Grover

Originally built in 1754 by a Rajput Prince as a royal pleasure retreat, the Taj Lake Palace comprises an island in the middle of hill-cradled Lake Pichola. Opened as a boutique property in 1969, and managed by the Taj group since 1971, it remains one of India's most famous hotels. Its supremely picturesque location, fascinating heritage and effortless ability to garner eclectic publicity – from A-list celebrities to an appearance in the James Bond film Octopussy – lend it a unique status.

Today its dazzling whitewashed exterior bestrides Lake Pichola’s shimmering waters like some curious ship. Skiffs with boatmen dressed like sailors shuttle back and forth from a private jetty. This charming access is utterly cinematic at dusk when the sky fills with hundreds of low-flying fruit bats. A parasol-bearing guard escorts one up a short flight of steps to an open terrace, which leads into the main lobby. Inside all is cool refinement tinged with jasmine scent – pale marble floors, pillared halls, chessboard tables and restored tikri, a distinctive glass-inlay wall decoration.

Udaipur’s best view over the lake (is it from or of the Lake Palace?) is a moot point but there’s little doubt that the one from it has an exclusivity lent only by an island. Apart from the occasional shrill little cries of teals and herons, it remains a sublimely tranquil place. A flautist perched in a pavilion by the Lily Pond garden plays morning and evening ragas. The muted sounds of temple bells, cymbals and chanting wafting across the water are a gentle reminder that one is, after all, on the edge of a lively city.

There is a bar alongside the lobby and three restaurants. Neel Kamal includes dishes from Udaipur’s royal kitchen. Bhairo Restaurant atop one wing’s roof is open only in the evening – burning torches on its parapet infuse an already fabled view with an uber-romantic quality. A small and shallow swimming pool sits in one corner of the palace overlooking the lake. Beside it, Jacuzzis are tucked neatly into a pair of little kiosks. There’s also an adjoining spa and (they literally pushed the boat out here) even an exclusive spa boat anchored at a distance.

There are sixty-six rooms (comprising two categories though few are identical) and seventeen highly individual suites. Rooms are extremely comfortable and of reasonable size with a modern feel without being modernist. The suites boast many decorative touches and are more in keeping with the property’s heritage. Lattice screens embellished with coloured glass, divan-verandas, scalloped arches, chandeliers and frescoed walls all echo the aesthetics favoured by India’s maharajahs.