Review of The Oberoi Vanyavilas, by Caroline Major

In April and May, when the trees have shed their leaves, and the water dries into small ponds that must be maintained by the park rangers, you are almost guaranteed a grand prize for your trouble of the 300 kilometre journey from Delhi, to the National Forest at Ranthambor: a tiger sighting. Seeing these graceful creatures up close as they wait for their lunch is to flirt with a mixture of emotion, adrenaline, fear, and excitement.

Harry Singh, a colourful character with mannerisms harking back to the British Raj, founded the park some 40 years ago, when there were just four tigers in the area. Under his management, there is now a thriving ecosystem in which both tigers and tourists can hunt. The tigers hunt for food, and the tourists for snaps. Recently, Singh sold his personal property on the edge of the park to Oberoi. They have created a safari camp, Vanyavilas, which shares a happy co-existence with the park ethic. Harry comes back each evening to brief and debrief guests on the day in the park, and if you're lucky enough to have him to yourself, will sit quite happily for a good yarn before dinner.

Ranthambor reserve reportedly has more frequent tiger sightings than any of the other Indian reserves, but is also rich in history. There is a 1000 year old fort, bird-watching, Jogi Mahal and folk art. Stay a minimum of three days. There is a lot to do here, and the service is second to none.

The facilities

The fruit trees are a key part of the kitchen garden, from which Chef produces most of the pickles and preserves for the restaurant. If you fancy, he'll take you on a tour to learn a little about Indian cooking. Inside the restaurant, they work on set menus, producing a mix of continental and Indian dishes, but if you're a foodie, ask to speak to him after breakfast and talk about what you want to eat. He's passionate, and will put something on the menu if he can find the ingredients, and if you ask, will pass you recipes. If you've been travelling in India for a while before you get here, you'll find the kitchen at Vanyavilas a true delight.

The rooms

Set amongst a grove of 1500 fruit trees, Vanyavilas consists of 25 luxury tents, each wrapped within a private walled garden. Sleeping under a sparkling canopy of gold and silver tigers, drift off dreaming of the next mornings' adventure, when you'll wake with the sun to watch the tigers breakfast. Oberoi have thought of everything in their air conditioned tents. They all have big comfortable beds, daybeds in your garden, a DVD library and a bathroom to die in. In fact, if you're into bathrooms, stay at Vanyavilas for this reason alone. In the centre of the teak floored room, stands a deep tub, majestic in its solitary position. On either side, there are his and hers wash basins, along with wardrobes, and a shower stall. The bathroom is filled with fine English soaps, bubbles, creams and potions, and to finish, big, fluffy towels.