Review of The Oberoi Grand, by Sarah Anderson

Known as La Grande Dame of Calcutta and a hotel for over 125 years, the Oberoi Grand has been recently totally renovated as a luxury hotel. Bang in the middle of Chowringhee, the location couldn't be better, but it is an odd feeling to leave the hustle and bustle of the street and drive through a plush courtyard into an even plusher marble-floored reception area.

The bedrooms are large with patterned carpets, some with four-poster beds, but the dark wooden furniture is slightly sombre and beware, it is only the third floor that has a no-smoking policy. The prints on the pale walls do lighten the atmosphere, but overall the feeling is masculine and rather like a men's-club.

Rather ominously, there is a set of scales at the entrance to each room, some of which have a balcony and some which look over the pool around which are tables for pool-side meals. Disconcertingly, therefore, if you want an evening swim you are watched by cocktail-drinkers.

The spa, which is run by Banyan Tree, was welcoming and relaxing, the disadvantage being that the only way of getting there was to walk through the lobby to a dedicated lift, an uncomfortable feeling if you are wearing a skimpy robe. There are 207 rooms, 6 suites and 3 restaurants: the international Terrasse, the Baan Thai and the Chowringhee Bar. Finally, the Oberoi has a no-tipping policy.