Review of Three Sisters, by Vijai Maheshwari

Like the obsessive perfumist in Patrick Suskind’s famous novel, Tallinn’s Three Sisters Hotel so brilliantly distils the essence of medieval Estonia that it has quickly become the region’s top luxury destination. Comprising of three, wedge-shaped 14th-century merchant’s houses, the hotel evokes the grandeur of that era with its ancient wooden-beamed ceilings, arched doorways, painstakingly restored frescoes, curvy wooden staircases, wood-panelled reading room and intimate wine cellar. The recreation is so picture-perfect that you almost expect to be greeted at reception by bearded staff in tunics and laced sandals, while knights in armour & pith helmets guard the door.

Instead, you’re offered a glass of fresh orange juice and given a choice between a wide selection of international papers. Having lived in Estonia earlier, and heard so much about the hotel, I had expected to feel slightly intimidated, but the staff are so friendly and disarming that I instantly felt at ease. The aromatic smells wafting down the halls from the hotel’s famed Bordoo restaurant also helped lift my spirits. Since hiring a new chef last year, it is furiously striving to earn the country’s first Michelin star, with its modern interpretation of local delicacies like Baltic sprat fillets on black bread, smoked salmon, and sea buckthorn juice.
 
It is this rare combination of old-school luxury and convivial spirit that has endeared the hotel to both popstars and the world’s royalty. Why? I wondered, until ushered to my gorgeous suite, with its whitewashed walls, wooden cabinets, wide antique sleigh bed, teakwood writing table and stone-framed windows looking out onto the cobblestoned Pikk St. below and the harbor beyond. With just 23 rooms, you feel cosseted in your own private world, like a privileged guest at an English manor house.

The low-slung armchairs almost shout out for a snoozy afternoon read, while the arty black & white pictures of Tallinn's Old Town make you want to grab your camera and explore the gorgeous neighbourhood just outside. Later, I was given a tour of the Piano Suite, where Queen Elizabeth stayed, which has an antique Estonian-made piano from 1893, and a bedroom overlooking the spire of St. Olaf’s Church, which was once the tallest building in North Europe.

Having spent two magical nights at the hotel, it’s no surprise to learn that it was named by Conde Naste Traveler as one of the 'World’s 50 Coolest Hotels', and is the only Baltic Hotel to be part of the prestigious Design Hotels group. Its famous wine cellar in the vaulted basement has also been singled out for praise by Wine Spectator magazine. Much kudos go to the hotel’s German manager, Sebastien Kraemer, who has done a marvellous job. Wunderbar.