The Peninsula Hong Kong, Kowloon, China

As you first enter the cool honey-hued lobby of the Peninsula Hotel, Hong Kong, to the accompaniment of Vivaldi from the string quintet and raised eyebrows from westerners sipping Darjeeling, it is hard to escape the impression that you have come to clean the chimneys. Yet, at this original hotel in the Peninsula chain, thanks partly to the beaming staff, it doesn’t take long to feel both comfortable and equally convinced that, for once, the hype about the hotel is close to the truth.

Settle into an upper level suite and the views - through the panoramic windows - of the bathtub of Hong Kong harbour are like a Maxvision film seen from above. The room itself seems like the embodiment of the territory’s “can-do” ethos: this bedside button closes the drapes, this one dims the lighting and that one calls the valet. The suite’s third television set is positioned in a waterproof bathside panel, distracting you from the developing circus of lights that defines Hong Kong by night, as you marinate in the jacuzzi.

Downstairs, the Roman-style indoor pool tiled in vivid blue and surrounded by columns beckons, while, by day, the broad outdoor deck (with views of course) invites you to absorb some of Hong Kong’s humidity, while virtually having your brow mopped with cooling towelettes by pool attendants.

Upstairs, at the 28th floor Felix restaurant and bar, you fully expect to meet beings with odd-shaped heads, so spacey is Philippe Starck’s aluminium design. In reality, the Felix is usually wall-to-wall with aspirant local Chuppies, international models, airline types and cocktail-swilling ex-pats. The Peninsula Hotel also wins the prestigious “hotel toilets with the best view” award for the adjacent urinals placed up against a wall of sheer glass!

Every great lady has a history. At 75 years old, the Peninsula Hotel in Hong Kong is no exception, intimately involved in the history of Hong Kong. "The Pen’s significance lies in the fact that it is the last remaining truly historical hotel in Hong Kong. It has witnessed riots, war and occupation - the British surrender to the Japanese on Christmas Night 1941 was signed there - as well as tremendous social and economic change in Hong Kong over the past seventy-five years." Jason Wordie, Hong Kong historian.

At the Pen, as she’s affectionately known around town, silver teapots and flatware are shined to perfection and dimpled smooth from their years of service. Silver domes warming food on its journey from the kitchen to the table ceremoniously reveal peninsula club sandwiches alongside fresh lemonade and other colonial teatime treats. Afternoon teas with frothy milk and bespecticled waiters swirl in sync with the string quartet. Strauss wraps around the neo-classical cherubs and columns and amongst the palms in gilded urns while elegant Chinese sip tea and chatter. With seven restaurants, and extended afternoon tea, there is always a reason to meet at the Pen.

Upstairs, the rooms are lavishly appointed, and much more than comfortable. For a real treat, splurge on a deluxe corner suite for floor to ceiling views of Hong Kong harbour from your Jacuzzi bath-tub, and while you’re there, phone a friend, champagne firmly in hand to describe the sunset. Afterward, sharpen the telescope for a different kind of entertainment. Know also, that if you really want to treat someone special, their granddaddy suite, ‘The Peninsula’, was recently named the most decadent hotel suite in a global survey by Elite Traveller.

For indulgence, take a helicopter from the rooftop on a scenic flight over the city, or just to the airport. Dine at Gaddi's, the 50 year old French restaurant where even the lemons are flown in from France, or take some stress off in the Clarins spa, specializing in treatments for men. It is the time to visit this Grand Dame. She has some excellent value packages. I felt right at home here, and bore a huge and joyous smile my whole stay.