Rambagh Palace, Jaipur, India

Once you’ve checked into the Rambagh, head for the shade of the white marble verandahs, and order a mint sprigged iced-tea. Sitting there, immerse yourself in a nostalgia trip for the British Raj, when the European style was in vogue and pockets deep. Behind you is the Suvarna Mahal restaurant, the Ballroom, the Neel Mahal and the Polo Room. Splendid in the fading glory of another time.

Fit for a king, there is rather alot to keep you amused at the Rambagh. The swimming pool is the jewel in the hotels' crown. Housed indoors, in the health complex, the massive stone and marble pool and spa is of a not often matched splendor. Afterwards, order a massage, or get sporty - croquet, tennis and squash are all options in this destination hotel.

Built in 1835, the Rambagh, is managed by the Taj hotel group, but ownership of the property is retained by the family. One of the Maharaja widows lives next door, presumably keeping an eagle eye on the current renovation program.

The original rooms, built around the 1st floor verandahs encircling the inner courtyard, are the ones to ask for. With high ceilings, they are beautifully crafted. Marble inlaid wooden floors, deco (from a previous renovation) and Moorish detailing are standard. Each room has an individual interior making the most of the features installed by the family, but an ongoing program of renovation has given a contemporary interpretation to the maharajahs original inspirations.

The palace is a veritable feast of styles. In some rooms, art deco bathrooms will rival any you have seen. There is a mix of Indian and European style decor from the period: Polish and French included, with bedrooms complete with carpets, paintings and soft furnishings of the time. If you can spend $1000 a night on the Princes Suite, do it to enjoy the indoor courtyard with its star shaped pool and wall of window opening onto a splendid terrace behind the front tower of the Palace, and overlooking the Chinese garden.

To deal with their popularity, Taj has added an extra floor to the palace, with more rooms. While these are OK comfort-wise, they of the bland chain hotel variety and should be avoided. This extends to the rooms on the ground floor of the palace, originally used for stables and servants. Staying at the Rambagh is a voyeuristic expedition into the life of an Indian Prince, so splurge on a Superior Deluxe room.

If you hear a bird chirping, which sounds like it’s in your room, it probably is. It may well be heralding the arrival of your room service.