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Go for middle-ranking, local hotels in China and they usually satisfy; the Prime Hotel is a great introduction to the genre. You get a good feeling just walking into the lobby: the chrome and marble gleams like a concubine’s hair, staff smile and an automated grand piano tinkles away to itself. (Is it just the imagination, or does it sometimes hesitate over a note?) The lobby restaurant lies on one side, a tempting patisserie on the other. The energy is delightful, with a great mix of guests and small tour groups passing too and fro.

Unlike many hotels that rely on Western brand names, this is a pleasant hotel that tries hard to please. Sure, the staff’s English is far from perfect, the prints that decorate the corridors not top notch, the décor somewhat formulaic. Who cares? This hotel knows what it is, and does it well. You’re apt to linger in the lobby, the staff smile and try hard, the polished floors are spotless. Add to that an unbeatable location on the top end of Wangfujing, Beijing’s most renowned shopping street, and within walking distance of the Forbidden City, and you’ll have few things to complain about.

The rooms
Guestrooms, pleasantly decorated in shades of gold and yellow, might be a little on the bland side, but have plenty of natural light and are very large, a rarity in Beijing. All the guestrooms have armchairs and a sofa (which converts to a sofa bed for the kids), providing a convenient sitting area in which to relax and watch TV without having to squat on the bed. Bathrooms are a fair size too, with separate shower and bathtub. Kettle, coffeemaker, and complimentary broadband Internet access add to the amenities. You might also be amused by the cultural curiosity of the ‘bedside shopping mini supermarket’: choose from socks, condoms and ‘keep-warm underpants’ – who knows, they all might be just the thing when the wind is whistling into the capital from the Gobi Desert. In short, the 400 guestrooms mightn’t have fine luxury or distinctive style, but are large, relaxing and very agreeable.