Hotel de Buci, Paris, France

After 40 years in the same family you would expect this boutique hotel - formerly an artist's studio, and 400 years old - to have plenty of 'patina', and so it does. Despite recent and fairly extensive renovation - a/c, electric blinds, quality fabrics and decent tvs - the Hotel de Buci has managed to retain its character, so that guests return year after year, many bringing presents for Lili the dog who belongs to Leonie, the owner.

As with many family-run hotels, it is the personal service as well as the character that draws them. While downstairs is full of a rich collection of paintings, antique and contemporary furniture and objets, the rooms upstairs are fairly uniform in décor, if not size, though the dominant colour changes on each floor.

The rooms
The 24 rooms are generally small, but warm and cocoon-like, with rich fabrics and colours. For size, the superiors are possibly better than the more expensive deluxes, unless you like the two room set-up, like mini-suites. The a/c units are all individual to each room, so 'preventing the spread of microbes', and the blinds ensure total black-out and total quiet, important for this busy night-time spot close to St Germain church. Firm mattresses and expensive pillows complete the comfort factor. Three suites provide family accommodation.