Brown's Hotel, London, United Kingdom

Checking into Brown’s Hotel in London is good for the ego. Doors swing open before you, the staff murmur greetings as you sweep past, the reception desk staff look delighted to see you, in an unobtrusive sort of way. As I arrived, a wagging, fatly friendly chocolate brown Labrador was going into the lift (attached to a long, thin lady.) Clearly, this luxury hotel has kept its sense of dog-loving Englishness intact. How reassuring.

The facilities

In fact, the new-look Brown’s Hotel exudes is ‘reassuring’. Colours are soothing and subdued. Shapes are gentle – little clusters of cup-shaped chairs in the Donovan Bar and the Tea Room, rows of white linen-covered tables in the Grill. It’s all impeccable and understated - muted English chic.

There is some beautiful original panelling in warm, rosy wood and a few lovely ornate ceilings which have been retained in the building. The refurbishment has added some striking details, like the smart mosaic tile-work in the halls and lobbies.

Brown’s Hotel is elevated by its service, which is close to divine. Everyone is unfailingly polite, knowledgeable, attentive and charming. Like the Labrador, you’ll want to wag your tail and grin.

The rooms

Take a look in one of the suites and Brown’s Hotel suddenly makes sense. There is a fresh English ethic at work here, with none of the gloomy, ponderous Edwardian splendour or chintzy Victorian clutter that characterises so many of London’s great ‘English’ luxury hotels.

Kipling is a Royal Suite on the first floor (all Royal and Presidential suites are first floor, to take advantage of the soaring ceilings). It’s ravishing, from its stripped wooden floors to its marble fireplaces. Floor-to-ceiling windows line both rooms. On the walls hang enormous, simple line paintings of seahorses, and an even bigger gilt-framed mirror wreathed in cherubs, which return guests will remember hung here before.

Every room is unique - different paintings, lamps, fresh flower arrangements. In terms of amenities, though, each is a variation on the same luxurious theme. All rooms have the same beds and linens (and, whether you’re in a suite or the merest double, you can choose to have cotton or linen on your bed). All rooms have flat-screen TVs and all bathrooms have under-floor heating and the same oversized shower roses.

As with all Rocco Forte hotels, the genius is in the detail. Books in the rooms play the English theme: a biography of Churchill, PG Wodehouse, Shakespeare’s comedies. In the suite with the double walk-in shower, there are two showerheads and two sets of temperature controls, so you won’t argue or get cold. All bathrooms have heated mirrors, which won’t steam up. Lighting is adjustable, wardrobes are enormous and toiletries are generous. Artwork is by established British artists and emerging talent. We could go on and on.