The entrance to this hotel looks uninspiring. Right on a busy corniche road, albeit with great views over the Baie des Anges, you would never imagine what lies behind. Even inside, the small reception area gives no clue. But once you go up in the elevator you enter a different world. Like stepping through a bookcase, you find an entirely new building set back behind the roadside one which retains the views while losing the road. And I the middle of it sits a charming courtyard garden, restaurant and small, raised pool.
Upstairs, 40 of the 60 rooms have magnificent views of the sea and the bay, many with wide, sit-out terraces. Woodwork and doors are of cool, limed wood, and furniture is simple and hand painted, wit wicker back chairs. Bathrooms have recently been renovated in small Roman travertine tiles.
There are a few drawbacks – the beds are low and on the hard side and the painted woodwork and carpeting look to be coming to the end of their useful life. But considering the views, the pool and the oasis calm in the midst of this busy city – and the beach across the road – these are small prices to pay. Just make sure you avoid the handful of rooms that overlook the rock.