Four Seasons Ritz Lisbon, Lisbon, Portugal

From the moment you enter the lobby of this luxury hotel, you know you’re in good hands. It it is still known locally as ‘Ritz’ (pronounced with a guttural French ‘R’), although this classic Fifties hotel has since 1998 been under the first-class management of the Four Seasons group. Doors open with a flourish, you are met with smiles and greeted by name - and this kind of personal attention continues throughout your stay, at all levels (not least from all-knowing concierge Rocha, who can make anything happen – at 8pm he conjured me a babysitter and a reservation at hip restaurant Olivier).

The facilities

Well located just above the old town, this concrete high-rise may seem at first glance like any international luxury hotel, with its oversized lighting and carpets and flower arrangements, but its untainted 50s design had the team from Architectural Digest in ecstasies. The interior showcases specially commissioned works of art by Portuguese artists of the period, including a magnificent sgraffito mural in gold leaf on black marble by Negreiros, as well as reliefs, sculptures, tapestries and oils.

All this has recently been topped and tailed by a soothing contemporary Zen spa and 18-metre pool in the basement (which shot into Conde Nast Traveller’s top 10 spas worldwide), and a mightily impressive fitness centre on the roof – an ultra-cool, spacious, glassy suite of rooms with the latest equipment, surrounded by a running track and wraparound views across tiled rooftops to the castle and sea – a wonderful way to hit your day.

The mountainous buffet breakfast is served in the gracious Varanda restaurant (genuinely fresh-squeezed OJ, muesli, strawberries, tropical fruits, yogurts, smoked salmon, hams, cheeses, bacon, French toast, pancakes, countless breads and pastries…). There’s also a gentleman’s clubby bar, fine dining and wine under French chef Stéphane Hestin at Varanda, spa and rooftop cafés and excellent room service.

The rooms

There are 262 spacious rooms and 20 suites, all with balconies, over 10 floors, with the Presidential Suite taking the laurels for grandeur and views. Décor is classic repro antique comfort, beds have mega downy pillows and soft cotton sheets changed daily. There’s lots of wardrobe space and plenty of side lights in various combinations. Business users will find ethernet and high speed internet connections in the room (as well as a business centre), while families can ask for an extra bed/cot or an interconnecting room.

We loved the treats on arrival and on our return in the evening – popcorn and iced tea for my daughter, pasteis de nata (dreamy custard tarts) and a small bottle of port for me, plus a colouring book and their guide to Lisbon for kids (everything from shops to the oceanarium). The fact that they’d placed one adult’s and one child’s size towelling robe in the bathroom also impressed us both – instead of the regulation his ’n’ hers robes. The bathrooms themselves are sleek and roomy, with a separate shower and bath, two sinks, and L’Occitane toiletries (suites get Bvlgari).

This is the key address in town for loyal business clients, golfers and their shopper wives and anyone who demands high standards of service and expects everything to operate smoothly, with the added attractions of the spa, location, space and vistas.