When Nice was a playground for the sun-seeking 1960’s jet-set, the Hotel Negresco was their favourite bedroom. Towering above the Promenade des Anglais like an opulent white sandcastle, it was the place where Charles Aznavour and Yves Montand took turns in crooning over a late-night Pernod while Catherine Deneuve and Gina Lollobrigida lay back and lapped it up. Almost half a century later this Belle Epoque palace, like many of its former guests, both looks and feels like something from an age gone by.

Privately owned by the indefatigable septuagenarian Madame Augier – who still lives in the copper-topped coupole, comes and goes through the revolving front door and sups each night in the Michelin-starred Le Chantecler restaurant – the Negresco is nowadays perhaps most famous for its outrageously eclectic collection of art. From the cool, spacious ground floor grand salle reception room with its listed Gustav Eiffel ceiling, to the 119 rooms spread across the hotel’s five floors, every last inch has been lavishly decorated in a variety of abruptly contrasting styles inspired by the personalities and noble residences of French history.

The tapestries, paintings, silk curtains and sparkling chandeliers that hang from every wall and ceiling above the rugs, porcelain, sculpture and antique furniture that line each wall are kept shimmering and shiny by a team of more than 30 full-time restorers. The 23 suites enjoy large balconies and celestial views over the Bay of Angels, while all but a few of the singles and doubles face back over the original town side entrance, favoured in the day when pale faces were de rigueur.

From the warm welcome and exquisite service of Head Concierge Serge Amalfitano and his army of white-gloved and crimson-clad porters to the final surprise of the extraordinary La Rotonde breakfast room – in which incredulous guests enjoy coffee and fresh pastries in the gaudy cabins of an original 18th century merry-go-round – the Negresco is quite simply unique. High kitsch for the rather rich, but a wonderful treat nonetheless.