The coastal drive down the Roseland Peninsula to The Lugger in Portloe is a seductive start to a hideaway weekend. Low and rolling green hills are populated with quaint villages lorded over by some impressive manors and very old trees. A few miles out the green gives way to wonderfully craggy cliffs contrasting the peace of the land with the fury of the sea.

The tiny village of Portloe is embedded into the ridge of a cove beaten into place by centuries of effort from the wind. The Lugger seems to cling precariously to the wall of the tiny cove, holding tight to its 17th-century foundation. It’s easy to see why a smuggler might have chosen to stash his loot here.

The facilities
The Lugger is a collection of three buildings formerly used by fishermen. The conversion maintains these roots with an understated yet comfortably chic style. This is a place to come and contemplate the sea at any time; in its wildest fury or sunny calm.

In the main building of the Lugger rooms look out over the sea – perfect for watching the sun go down on a lazy afternoon. If you’ve not got a room with a view, don’t worry; the terrace outside the restaurant is a great spot to watch the fishermen bring in your supper while the gulls circle noisily above.

Breakfast and dinner are included in the room tariff and are an excellent option. Breakfast is a generous fry-up filled out with fresh juice, fruit and a nose-full of fresh sea air. The dinner menu is based on the days catch, and is expertly teamed with seasonal produce. The wine list is well selected.

The rooms
Rooms are comfortable and include simple luxuries: lots of pillows and cushions covered in white and cream and light coloured wood. Glass doors and shutters open out onto a communal balcony of the lower floor in the main rooms annexe.

Take plenty to read, some good walking boots and a serious desire to unwind to get the most from this luxury hotel. And pack your chunky cable-knit sweater.